Rebuilding Great Nicobar Island after the Tsunami: Reports from Judge Singh Brar

LETTER: Launching the Computer Center

2005-10-27T18:26:00.000-07:00

I am writing to update you on my tsunami relief project in Great Nicobar with United Sikhs. I spent three months in Great Nicobar and returned to California in March, where I have continued the work from afar. I am proud to tell you that we have established a computer learning center for the children of Great Nicobar. We chose this as the most effective way to secure a promising future for the children of those families devastated by the disaster. The children will receive certificates once they go through the program, which gives them a fighting chance for careers in computer science and beyond. This project would not have been possible without your support. You kept my spirits high with your letters and phone calls, and your financial support has brought hope to hundreds of children on the island. I am excited to give you this update.

THE COMPUTER LEARNING CENTER

The computer learning center is off to a great start. The response has been more than we ever anticipated. We launched the center with three old computers and brought in seven new computers in June this year. We had repaired the old computers after they were badly damaged by the earthquake that caused the tidal wave. (You have to remember this island was only about 100 km, about 60 miles, from the epicenter of the tsunami quake. I can barely imagine being that close to a 7.9 Earthquake let alone the ensuing Tsunami.) By July 15, we had 240 student sign up for classes! And we presently have 280 children taking 11 shifts with two students per computer. So with only ten computers, we effectively enrolled 280 students from all over the populated area of Great Nicobar. Talk about overcrowded schools. The center opens at 6:30 am and closes at 8:30 pm.

We are now financing the ongoing expenses of running the center, thanks to the hard work of students and parents on the Island and to the generous support of people in the United States. A school district, including Island School, near Lemoore raised nearly $4,000 for the center. And other individuals like Dr. Prem Singh and his family have contributed to our grassroots effort. We are still in the process of setting up communications between the Island and the US. Phone communication is now operating better then before due to some upgrading after the disaster. I have been in contact with John Robert Babu, our head master for the center, by phone. He always sounds upbeat and always asks me when he will get more equipment.

NEXT STEPS

We plan to expand the center by bringing in ten more computers and equipment for video-conferencing. We also need a LCD projector that would make it easier to teach using a big screen, but we need more funds. We have purchased a laptop for John Robert Babu and hope to have money to buy the LCD projector. I’ll be taking this equipment to him personally on my next trip scheduled in January 2006. It is difficult to ship expensive material to the island due to governmental corruption and high duty fees, so carrying these items myself will be the safest and cheapest to get them where they are needed. It will have been one year in January since I made my first trip.

I have been speaking at local Rotary Clubs in the Fresno area and have had some success in raising more funds. But due to new disasters leaving people in as serious or worse condition, it has become more difficult to fundraise. I heard that Esher Singh, who was with us in Great Nicobar, is now in Pakistan working on saving the victims of the recent earthquake. Although I wish I could be with him, I will stay focused on what we have started in Great Nicobar and keep working to complete our project for these children. My next presentations are at the Woodward Park Rotary on November 15, 2005 and then at the Clovis Rotary on November 18, 2005.

THE ISLAND

In other news, when I left Great Nicobar in late March this year, the entire island had sunk into the ocean by 1.5 meters. Now I am told that it has sunk an additional 2.5 meters make the total subsidence equal to 4 meters or about 13 feet. All low-lying ground has now become useless, which further damages the recovery effort. The good news is that it seems to have stopped sinking, at least for now. You may have heard about the 7.1 earthquake a few months ago at Great Nicobar in the national news. Luckily it did not create a tsunami. I called John Robert just after it occurred and he said everything was alright except that the children were very frightened. I can imagine how frightened they must have felt after all that has happened to them and the Island. We should and will not forget them in their continued time of need.

Thank you so much for your support.

Judge Singh Brar

REPORT THREE: Planning the Community Center

2005-02-14T16:28:00.000-08:00

I just got up at 6:30 as usual. This morning, I am feeling a little better than the last few days. There have been some major developments. The house building project is on hold due to the Indian Government proposing to build 1200 homes in Great Nicobar, including 200 for tribal and 500 for non-tribal people near Campbell Bay, 300 home in Gobind Naggar (located 3km from Campbell Bay) and 200 homes in Jogindar Naggar (located 13 km from Campbell Bay) for non-tribal people. Major Santokh saw this document proposing these efforts from the Urban Development Corporation of India Sent to New Delhi. So our idea of providing pre-fabricated homes would not be necessary at this time. I feel a little disappointed that we will not build homes as planned, but I have an idea that may make an even greater impact for generations to come. We turn our efforts to building a Community Center for Great Nicobar.

VISION FOR THE CENTER

We plan to build a Community Center with a computer learning lab. The Center would provide a meeting place for the community... This building would be the first of its kind here.

We plan to build a Community Center with a computer learning lab. The Center would provide a meeting place for the community. There would be a daycare section, a section for older people, a full kitchen with modern conveniences, a place for kid with games, and most importantly, we would install a computer learning center at one end.

The computer lab would be amazing for the kids here. I feel in order to make a long term impact of good, we need to concentrate on the youth. Computers would go a long ways in exposing these kids to outside technologies and presenting opportunities for their future. They would learn English, Punjabi/Gurmukhi, and Computer Science. They are not getting proper education in any of these subjects, and they need this education. I will put my own money directly into computers. I hope the people who donated will understand that the immediate needs of the people here have been met and we are looking long-term in improving the lives of the people through education.

Through the children, the adults will also benefit. We will have a video conferencing center and run classes online. Navneet thinks there should also be seminars for adults where they could ask questions and find answers on the internet. For example, one could ask what is the best fertilization schedule for growing coconuts or how can we find new markets for our produce. This information source could bring this island into the 21st century. I am very excited about this. I hope all the people back home who have helped and given so much will like this idea and support it. I feel it could make a real difference in the future of the children here. This project will help generations to come have access to modern technology.

The project would have two-phases: (1) temporary computer learning lab, and then (2) permanent Community Center with the computer lab. We would like to build the permanent Community Center of about 3000 square feet using a prefabricated building from mainland India. Right now, I’m working on setting up a temporary location where we could get up and running the computer learning lab ASAP. One good possibility is just across and upstairs from where we are staying. Davindar Singh could rent it out to us; it has the right wiring to get internet access. Then later, once it becomes well-established, we can build the permanent center. I plan to install sit-down toilets, running hot water, soap dispensers, a place to keep snacks and milk, air conditioners, and screens on windows so mosquitoes don’t come in. They have absolutely none of these things on the island. This building would be the first of its kind here.

NEED COMPUTERS-- URGENT

We need ten computers as soon as possible to start the computer lab... Anyone can donate.

We need ten computers as soon as possible to start the computer lab. We need companies and individuals to donate both used and new computers Pentium III or better. Anyone can donate. Donors can send their computers to our house, and we will provide the shipping to the island. Computers can be sent to:

Judge Singh Brar (Computer Lab)
2779 Bullard Ave
Clovis, CA 93611

I need these computers ASAP. If we have to buy new ones ourselves, it would be better to buy an Indian brand so they could be serviced here. They would cost RS 35,000. The exchange is 40 to 1. So less than $1,000 each. But if we get the computers at little or no cost, it will give us that much more money to use for teachers and building rental costs. Eventually, the computer learning lab will have video-conferencing cameras, laser printers, and more technologies, but we need ten computers to get started.

SCOUTING FOR LAND

If this view site was in any other place in the world, it would be worth millions... I just wish I could get some pictures out so you could see for yourself the beauty of this land.

While we set up the temporary computer learning lab, we are looking for land for the permanent Community Center. The permanent center would be a prefabricated building, 3000 square feet at 20 X 150 feet. I would like to locate it among the jungle forest to provide a serene and quite setting. The jungle here is extremely thick and lush. We have seen some awesome building sites. Now the question is how to secure one close to town.

I took a ride on the motorcycle one evening to a highpoint in the coast road that runs along and above the air field the military uses. Navneet went with me and we looked for the best sites for a building. At about 3 km from town we came to a stretch of the road where there was a 180 degree view of Campbell Bay and the harbor. If this view site was in any other place in the world, it would be worth millions. With the jungle all around the view is through some tall trees and onto the ocean. I hope we can secure some of this prime view property for the future. Some day it will be some of the most prime property on the island. The people here can’t see this yet. Why would anyone want a piece of land in the jungle on a slope that needs to be cleared and leveled just for the view? I just wish I could get some pictures out so you could see for yourself the beauty of this land.

This land may be too far from town. Yesterday a Congressman from Delhi by the name of Charan Singh Supra came and had a meeting here at Campbell Bay. I was able to meet him and record the meeting. There was a good discussion on the needs of the Punjabi farmers. He liked the idea of the Community Center and promised he would try to provide land for it. So this seems to be the direction we are going. What I’m afraid of is that the time it will take to get the land will be too long. I have been in India for over three weeks now. And time is going fast. I don’t want to start something that I can’t finish in the time I have. I had the impression that we would hit the ground running. That the equipment was on the way. Well, it couldn’t have been further from reality here. No saw mill has shown up yet. Land is still not available to build from the government. Of course there is no control over that. This is why I will direct my immediate energy to setting up the temporary computer learning lab in the space we have.

FINDING STAFF

We have become friends with John Robert, a native of Great Nicobar, who runs the government satellite communication center, where I write emails. Navneet and I talked to him until 1 am this morning about our idea to establish a computer lab. It seems that he is our man. If anyone can help us, he can. John has taught computers to children here on the island before and had run side business until the tsunami wiped it out. He is licensed to give upper-division computer course certificates valid in the mainland. He has bought into a franchise, so we need to buy or pro-rate it from him to provide these kids a certificate. John is very interested and seems sincere. John said that we just need approval from the Governor and we can tie our lab into the dish at this Communication Center via hard wire. We are in with Governor Barnala Singh, because the boys (Navneet and the American Sikhs) spent a day with him in Chennai before flying to Port Blair.

SPONSORING CHILDREN

We’re making 15 second video clips of each child telling about himself and asking for sponsorship for his/her education.

We have videotaped all the children who wish to have a better education and whose parents are willing to let them go out of here. We’re looking for sponsors to send these kids to better schools on the mainland. We’re making 15 second video clips of each child telling about himself and asking for sponsorship for his/her education. Then we would place a profile with information on age, parents’ education, personal interests, and other things of interest to sponsors. We would place all the information on a website to seek sponsors.

SPORTS DAY

Josh led a group in organizing a day of sack races, running races, and food and drinks with french fries... The kids loved it.

On Saturday, we organized a Sports Day for the children. This is a day that we have all looked forward to. Josh led a group in organizing a day of sack races, running races, and food and drinks with french fries (Josh calls them chips). The school agreed to let us use the field and serve refreshments. We had such a great time. The kids loved it. Josh led the event with a typical English sports enthusiasm. He led cheers and got all the kids into an excited mood. We even had a soccer (football) game between teachers and United Sikhs. We donated all the sports gear that UNITED SIKHS and Pingal Wara sent from the mainland to the school. I gave away the toys that my wife Dolly bought to the kids as prizes. She even got a big hand from all the kids when I hade the teacher tell them the prizes were from her in the USA. Got it on tape.

Unfortunately some of the adults did not like the carefree and child-like nature of the event that they were not used to. There were some party poopers, like the president of the school and parents thought that we adults were acting like children. They have no clue. They have never seen the kids so engrossed and well behaved, all watching. It was conducted in much the way school rallies are. I thought it was great and someone told me they had never seen the kid so involved and attentive. After the Sports Day, we were heroes. All the kids were rallying around us. Everyone recognizes us now. Kids run up to us and people on bicycles yell hello: “Satsriakal, Judge Sahib!” It’s a small island and everyone knows us now. It’s a neat feeling. I’ve had a really good last few days.

STORIES OF SURVIVORS

A 22-year old Nicobari woman was just discovered after 51 days in the jungle. This hasn’t made national news yet.

There’s a man here by the name of Jab Singh. His son was paralyzed from the waist-down because of the tsunami. The organization Pingal Wara in Amritsar, Punjab has agreed to take care of him but they require his parents need to deliver him to Amritsar. His parents cannot make the journey. So UNITED SIKHS has offered to take him there.

A 22-year old Nicobari woman was just discovered after 51 days in the jungle. This hasn’t made national news yet. She is in the hospital. She survived on pigs and coconuts. She walked out on her own; no one saved her. I hope to talk to her.

GOVERNMENT PROMISES

The Home Minister of India, Raj Patel, promised to give 100,000 rupees to all the ex-servicemen. His speech was amazing, but no one believed him. There were chanting and yelling. A riot scene broke.

The Chief Minister of Punjab came and gave each ex-serviceman 300 laks of money. Yesterday the Home Minister of India, Raj Patel promised to give 100,000 rupees to all the ex-servicemen. I got some good footage of the speech and the following reactions from the crowd. Mr. Patel said that the Indian Government promised 3,000 kror for the Nicobar Islands over the next two years. They promised temporary shelters before the rain season. They promised to build 10,000 homes among all the islands and over 400 km of roads. He also said that those that want to leave will be compensated with similar property on the mainland, but this property would have to be acquired by the government from private owners.

His speech was amazing, but no one believed him. There were chanting and yelling. A riot scene broke. I got it on tape. Everyone thought that I was a reporter and tried to give me their comments.

Despite the skepticism of the villagers, the Indian Government plans to do a lot here. Our building any homes would not be the best thing right now, because if we do it, it will diminish what they get from the government. So we shift gears and turn to the Community Center.

HIGH TIDE

Much of the town of Campbell Bay is now useless due to the high tide. We had the highest tide yesterday and saw how much land it really affects. It was amazing. The town has a lot of low laying ground that were never covered at high tide but yesterday were under two feet of water. The place is in bad condition. People are trying to make the best of it by washing out their shops and houses and working with the time between extra high tides. Something will need to be done soon.

HEALTH

I began teaching the kids how to swim. Can you believe they live on an island and they don’t know how to swim! I taught them how to back float... For a moment, I forgot where I was and all that has happened here and was lost in the embrace of the ocean.

I have been a little under the weather the last few days but I feel better today. I think it was the dust created in the cleaning process at the Gurdwara. There is still a lot of politics going on, and no one wants to make a decision as to what they want or need. We have been eating langar at the Gurdwara and it is quite good. The food is from the supplies from UNITED SIKHS. Most of the group will be leaving soon including Navneet. I will miss them all; we have shared some good experiences and some rough ones.

I had felt very frustrated with the progress we’ve made. Although we have helped the people with their immediate needs, such as typing up document to the government and getting them langar (open kitchen) supplies, we had not accomplished our long-term goals. It seems that just as we have an idea to do something, like the houses were going to build, it gets stopped by new developments. But this idea of building the Community Center has given me new hope and energy. I believe it will make a real difference for these children and for generations to come.

We went swimming yesterday. They had been doing but this was the first time I joined them. The water is wonderful. It’s a paradise. The water’s warm and the little kids came out. I began teaching the kids how to swim. Can you believe they live on an island and they don’t know how to swim! I taught them how to back float. For a moment, I forgot where I was. Palm trees swaying, perfect sand. It is warm enough to stay in for hours if you want. I forgot where I was and all that has happened here and was lost in the embrace of the ocean. I loved it so much I would like to make it a daily ritual if I can find time. I hope that some day we can all come here and enjoy the beauty and serenity of this land together.

-- Email and Phone Transcription from February 11-14

PROPOSAL: COMMUNITY CENTER

2005-02-09T16:17:00.000-08:00

We intend to build a Community Center with a computer learning lab for Great Nicobar. After much discussion and thought over what would be the most beneficial contribution to the relief effort, we have come up with this idea. We also estimated the required funding realistically. We feel at this given time this project will bring the most immediate and long lasting benefit.

OBJECTIVE

To build and furnish a Community Center for the villagers and their children. This center would consist of a pre-fabricated building made in Mainland India and available in as little two months, possibly sooner with incentives. It would cover 3000 square feet with an outside dimension of 20 feet by 150 feet. This narrow building could be broken up into four sections with partitioning, accessed through a covered veranda from the exterior of the building. The sections would be used for several different services.

The first section would be a reception area complete with a canteen for the sale of books, school supplies, and tea and snacks. This feature may also provide an income stream to supplement operational cost.

The second section would be a daycare center for the small children whose parents may be working during the day .

The third section would be a small meeting hall for the elders. This would provide for some interaction between the seniors and the children. And would be a place for information exchange.

The fourth section would be the computer center for the education of school aged children in computer operation and possibility internet learning.

PLAN

Land is available through several source for building purposes. An acre of land has been donated by Mr. Amarjit Singhs family for any purpose we choose. Other members of the community have shown an interest in providing land. The government has yet to come through with any offer. The land would be cleared by the use of a backhoe with loader bucket. This would be available for a rental fee here in Campbell Bay. Ecological concerns will be kept in mind while doing any land clearing. The natural flora will be incorporated into the landscaping of the site. A building pad would be built up from available dirt and compacted by wheel rolling with a loaded flat bed truck available on the island as well. Forms for the foundation would consist of 2X10 lumber which can also be obtained here. Concrete would be mixed on site with rented gas powered mixers from local contractors. Sand and gravel is available for the concrete mixture formulation. Cement for mixture would need to come from Port Blair. Piping for drains and water supply would also come from Port Blair. The building from the manufacturer would be complete from the finished foundation up. So no further materials would be required for building.

Once built, the center would need to be furnished. The most costly items would be the computer equipment . We will appeal to companies in the United States for discounted or free equipment. We would also explore the possibility of satellite internet access for enhanced learning and information dissemination. The foundation pad could be started immediately with the manufacturers template. This would allow rapid construction of the structure once the pre-fabricated parts arrive.

<>We are seeking both monetary donations and used and new computers (at least Pentium 3) to set up the community center and computer learning lab.

BUDGET

The total cost for the Community Center and computer learning lab is $56,900. To see the line item budget, email: valariek@gmail.com

REPORT TWO: March on the Island

2005-02-09T16:10:00.001-08:00

MARCH TO STAY ON THE ISLAND

I looked outside and was astonished. “What are you all doing here?” I asked. They said, “We’re here for you. We’re not going to let them take you out of here.”

I just got on the net for the first time since Port Blair. So much has happened since we got here. A few days ago, we received word that the Assistant Commissioner (AC) on the island wanted to force all the Americans to leave. Yesterday, Tuesday February 8, Navneet came back to the room and told the team that we only had 24 hours left on the island. “There’s a good chance we’re leaving, so it’s best we make our final preparations.” We had a meeting. We decided that the best thing was to work together to keep me here somehow, because my work was the most long-term and important. They couldn’t come up with anything. We decided that it was best to go back to Port Blair and then work my way back to the island somehow. We ended the meeting, frustrated. I told the Punjabi villagers what was happening. I talked to the president of the gurdwara, and he said it wasn’t right. I went back into the room, feeling very defeated.

In the mean time, Navneet was telling the villagers that we were being forced to leave. Within hours, word had spread and a huge crowd of people gathered in front of our house. I looked outside and was astonished. “What are you all doing here?” I asked. They said, “We’re here for you. We’re not going to let them take you out of here.” We all marched to the AC’s office. It was a protest! It was amazing. The people kept saying, “You’re the only one who has come to help us. If they take our brothers, we’ll go with them!” I was feeling so sick because we hadn’t done all that we planned. But people were saying, “You have given us hope. If you came all the way from America to help your sisters and brothers, the least we can do is help you stay here.” Many said that the AC seemed to have a prejudice toward Sikhs: “For rations, he gave us stale bread, crackers dated for 2003.” Once we reached the office, the villagers faced the AC and said, “If you take him out, we’re going too!” The gurdwara representatives and Esher Singh went inside to speak with the AC and they got on the phone with people in Washington, DC. Esher Singh came outside and told us, “We’re good to stay. They will give us a few more days.” The AC has agreed to let us stay here until the 17th of February, at which time all non-Indians need to leave.

RESTORING THE GURDWARA

Today, I am working on renting a backhoe so that we can clean up the gurdwara. The gurdwara is surrounded by water at this high tide. I still need to find out what’s happening to the island geologically from scientists. We will try to build it up higher today, so that the water doesn’t swamp it. We may bring in more dirt or build a sea wall to keep water away. I am trying to rent the backhoe from a Punjabi villager. He has two backhoes, but at this time they are rented to the government. We will find out tomorrow if they will let us use them for a couple of days.

HEALTH

I am doing alright as far as health. I do miss home a lot lately. I need to start the main project soon so it will keep my mind off home. The island is very beautiful with its rich forests of dense jungle and trees. No one wants to sell any cars or motorbikes right now, because so many were lost in the tsunami. So it’s still hard to get around. I walk everywhere and sometimes someone will let us use their motorcycle for a few hours. I already told you about the march yesterday to the AC’s office. It was so much fun but very serious too. It gave us three days and today Esher Singh Got us more time with his connections. The tides are rising as the month goes on. Tonight we will see the highest tide to date. Got to go for now. I’m at the government communication center and thanks to John for letting me get on.

--Email and Phone Transcription, February 9

REPORT ONE: First Survey

2005-02-07T01:37:00.000-08:00

On Friday night, my dad called from Great Nicobar Island. He has no internet access and limited minutes on the phone, so he spoke quickly, intensely, like a good reporter without time. Below is a transcription of his report to you. See especially: Tsunami Stories from Villagers and Prospects for Rebuilding Lives. Also see links to photographs.

-- Valarie

I am calling you from my satellite phone on a jolly buoy in Sector 30 of Great Nicobar, an area badly devastated from the tsunami. The others in the team are out examining the damage and meeting the native tribe. They would not let me embark, because I don’t have permission in this area as a foreigner. I’ll need to speak quickly. They will return soon and the captain will take us back to base. I have so much to tell you.

JOURNEY TO GREAT NICOBAR

On January 22, I arrived in Chennai, a coastal city in Madras in South India. The other volunteers from UNITED SIKHS met me and we immediately bonded. Josh (Jarover Singh) is a spirited 24-year old from the UK. Navneet Singh is a practical young man from Atlanta. We went to the navy ship that was supposed to take us to the islands, but they wouldn’t let us board because we weren’t Indian citizens. We were very discouraged. But Navneet arranged for our way on a freight and passenger ship a few days later.

We took a ship called the Nancowrey from Chennai to Port Blair, the main port on South Andaman Island of the Andaman Islands. It was a three-day journey. At Port Blair, Josh got very sick from the journey but soon recovered. We met with the rest of the team. Major Santokh Singh came from the PingalWara humanitarian organization from Amritsar, Punjab. Surinder Singh accompanied him. Esher Singh was the first to survey the island and call its attention to UNITED SIKHS. He had sent photographs taken from a helicopter to stress the magnitude of the damage.

We tried to get a helicopter to Great Nicobar on Friday January 29, but there were none available until Monday. On Saturday, we found that the Deputy Commissioner of Shipping and Aviation, Paul James, had arranged for a boat that held 150 people to sail for Great Nicobar. 500 people were on the waiting list. It was a madhouse, people everywhere waiting in line, demanding to get on the boat. Major Santokh Singh went straight to the management office and used his influence to secure seats for our team. On Saturday, we began another three-day journey by ship.

On the way to Great Nicobar, the ship stopped at two small islands, Car Nicobar and Nancowrey (the same name as our ship). At Car Nicobar, we found a bus driver on the island who took us to Moracca Point, the area most devastated by the tsunami. The dock was badly damaged, broken ships lay stranded on the shore, and there were piles of rubble. There must be bodies buried beneath that rubble, but no one yet has looked. One naval commander told us that out of 22,000 of the Andaman Islands, 5,500 were dead or missing. [Recent data estimates 6,000 data.] I have video-taped all parts of the journey. Nobody in the military allowed me to videotape them. They said that official word must come from the government.

We reached Campbell Bay of Great Nicobar Island on Monday, January 31. People from the main gurdwara (Sikh temple) came to receive us and immediately fed us. We met Davinder Singh, a Sikh man from Port Blair who came to stay at Great Nicobar after the tsunami to look after his property. Davinder Singh’s children are grown and live in the UK. Another leader from the gurdwara, Paramjit Singh, arranged for us to stay at Davinder Singh’s house.

GREAT NICOBAR: FIRST SURVEY

“Looking out onto the sea, you can see palm trees in the middle of the ocean. It’s impossible for the ocean to rise so quickly, so it’s the island that has sunk.”

Campbell Bay is the most populated part of Great Nicobar Island, though relatively small. The houses of Indian settlers stretch from Campbell Bay at Sector 0 to Sector 13 where the Punjabi community lives. [The number of the sector defines how many kilometers it lies from Campbell Bay.] The rest of the island is occupied by natives.

The island is beautiful, and the devastation very bad. Much land is under water. The island has sunk 2 meters in a geological shift after the tsunami. Looking out onto the sea, you can see palm trees in the middle of the ocean. It’s impossible for the ocean to rise so quickly, so it’s the island that has sunk. There are aftershocks daily, and the people pass rumors that the island is still sinking. These rumors aren’t true but raise the fear and anxiety on the island.

There are 4,500 people in relief camps in Campbell Bay, where most of the Indian settlers live. I have visited all of the camps. The camps are simply open sheds without walls or large tents. Each has a cooking area or langar (Sikh open kitchen) where they cook rice, potatoes, and chapatis (Indian bread). We noticed that they weren’t cooking efficiently with their ingredients and so showed them how to do it right. They need leadership in these camps.

Most of the settlers here are retired military people and their families who were given land by the government. The Punjabis settled here in the late 1960s and early 1970s. The Indian government had first offered free or cheap land to populate the island and keep it as a strategic location for the military. Foreigners are not allowed on the island. I may be the first American citizen to set foot on the island for a very long time.

The Punjabi community here was doing well. They built their lives over decades. They suffered the most material losses because they had the most to lose. There are 300 Sikh families and 70 families are now homeless. The main gurdwara (Sikh temple) is in Gobind Nagar in Campbell Bay. The gurdwara has water lapping onto the complex. I intend to build a retaining wall to protect it. The other gurdwara, in Joginder Nagar 13 km from Campbell Bay, was completely destroyed by the tsunami.

The city in Campbell Bay itself is dirty. There is trash in the ditches and manure in the roads. Cows wander along the streets alongside people, just like the main streets of India. But there is no trash pick-up or sanitary system at all. There is no running water, only cold water brought in large drums. I take my bath using the water from these drums.

I am trying to get in contact with the native communities, but they are difficult to reach; access is restricted. One needs a permit to meet the native tribes. The Shompens are the main native people here. They live in the forests and practice hunting, gathering, and fishing. They have very little contact with the outside world.

Outside of the devastation, the island is beautiful. There are great mountains overlooking the bay. There are groves of all kinds of fruit on the island, bananas, mangoes, papaya, coconuts. Some villagers have given me coconut milk straight from the trees, and the milk is so sweet. Some of the milk even tastes carbonated. I worry about the cultural and ecological impact of tourism, but at the same time, it would be economically advantageous for these villagers to open their island to tourists.

TSUNAMI STORIES FROM VILLAGERS

“Imagine maneuvering around trees, trying to outrun an ocean wave, across one kilometer of flat land before you reach the mountains.”

I’ve heard many stories. Davinder Singh, the man who has opened his house to us, ran a transport service on the island. He managed two buses. One bus was driving in Sector 30, Gandhi Nagar, close to the shore. The bus driver saw the ocean water recede and called all the passengers to get out of the bus and sit on top. The first wave came and swamped the bus, but the people were safe. The driver had great foresight. When the water receded again, before the second wave was about to come, he yelled for the passengers to run to the mountains. From the hills, they saw the second wave envelop the bus. He had saved their lives.

One young boy was out on the shore with his family when the first wave came. His parents called him to climb up onto the trees. They all climbed up the trees. His mother saw a young child still on the shore. She jumped down from the tree to save the child and the wave took her. When the water receded, the boy jumped down and climbed up onto a higher tree. He was saved from the second wave, higher than the first, because he switched trees. Now only his father and sibling are left.

Another man ran through the village, yelling, “The water is coming! Run!” He warned everyone to flee. Although people lived because of him, he was never found. He drowned.

In Sector 13, villagers have taken me to retrace their footsteps. It was not a straight run to the mountains but a circuitous route around palm trees. Imagine maneuvering around trees, trying to outrun an ocean wave, across one kilometer of flat land before you reach the mountains. I’ve seen stone and brick houses with one wall standing. It’s unbelievable and amazing that any people survived this.

On February 2, we heard that nine survivors were found on this island! It was amazing news. I hope to get interviews with them. Read the breaking news from AP:

http://abclocal.go.com/kgo/news/020205ap_nw_tsunami_survivors.html

PROSPECTS FOR REBUILDING LIVES

“The day before yesterday, 150-200 villagers led a protest march through Campbell Bay, followed by a hunger strike.”

“But we need experts to come here and survey the agricultural situation to suggest what these people can do for a living. We need an expert to take into account the tide tables, typhoon seasons, everything.”

At this point, the Indian government has not offered any land for the people to develop since the tsunami. One property-owner has donated a one-acre plot of land for the refugees. It is steep land but I believe we can build a sample home on this property. It will take time. It will take three months just to set up a saw mill, which we’ll need to build new homes en masse. The situation has become frustrating. Half of the Punjabi villagers say they want to leave the island and return to Punjab. They threaten to leave unless the government gives them more aid in the form of money or land. The day before yesterday, 150-200 villagers led a protest march through Campbell Bay, followed by a hunger strike. The lieutenant governor from India flew in to the island to pacify the villagers. He promised that the government would show them their plan by February 14. This stopped the hunger strike. But many people are skeptical. They need more help.

I spoke with the people in the march and listened to their fears and needs. They see no future here for them. The single military school here was destroyed. There is no place to educate their children. Even villagers who do not want to leave tell me that they need a reason to rebuild their lives here. Hearing these concerns, I came up with an idea. We could build a computer learning center that offers extension courses. Children and young adults could take online classes. We could hire a teacher for two years to come and manage the center on the island at perhaps $200/month. Others on our team have brainstormed the idea of importing pre-fabricated homes from India, so that we can set up new houses immediately.

Another concern is agriculture. The farmland here is swamped. The rice patties are all gone. People are saying, “The government will give us land in the mountains, but what will we do for a living? There’s only six inches of top-soil up there. We cannot grow coconuts.” I ask them, “Can you grow something else? Coffee? Something that can grow along hillsides?” They just shrug. An Indian agriculturalist sent from the government told them that the land was no good. But we need experts to come here and survey the agricultural situation to suggest what these people can do for a living. We need an expert to take into account the tide tables, typhoon seasons, everything. Rebuilding their lives here is a massive project and will take several years. [If you know experts in the agricultural field who would like to assist with the assessment of the island, contact: valariek@gmail.com]

PERSONAL REFLECTION

Generally, I feel good. I am frustrated by the obstacles to beginning the work, and I’ve watched other people here come up against the same resistance. We cannot build yet. There are too many complications to build right away. It’s not easy. All the supplies must come by boat. It takes six days for supplies to reach us by ship from India and then three more days if from the US. There is limited air transport. Three additional white American Sikhs have just arrived and joined our team, two by the name of Hargobind Singh and one Satvir Singh. I gain encouragement from our team.

Esher Singh leads the gurbani (Sikh prayer) and meditation before every meal. The meditation, Satnam Waheguru, repeated over and over becomes trance-like. This is a new experience for me and I’m coming to enjoy it.

What would you like to say to everyone back home supporting you?

Thank you. Thank you everyone. I promise to put your donations to good use. You have my word. We have many projects in mind, and right now we’re now trying to decide on the best one. Do we pursue a project with immediate relief, such as building pre-fabricated homes? Or do we produce something longer-lasting, such as creating an education center? We have limited resources. I would love to hear input and ideas from back home. [To share your ideas, write: valariek@gmail.com]

WHAT YOU CAN DO

Spread the word. Bring people to this report. Encourage donations. Every bit will go a long way to rebuilding Great Nicobar. And you will see exactly what your donations accomplish.

To support the project, make an online donation on the UNITED SIKHS website and in the column, write “For Judge Brar”. Email his daughter Valarie [valariek@gmail.com] so she can keep track of your donation:

http://www.unitedsikhs.org/reliefproject.html#donate

PHOTOGRAPHS

Up until now, I have taped twelve hours of footage, capturing the journey that began in Chennai and then Port Blair and now here in Great Nicobar. It will take time for these images to reach people in the States. In the mean time, people can see Esher Singh’s photographs. He was the first to come to the island and bring UNITED SIKHS to help.

See the PowerPoint Slide Show (2.37MB) of Great Nicobar taken by Esher Singh. Or see these photographs on the UNITED SIKHS website:

http://www.unitedsikhs.org/ghanaia/gallery/campbell_bay/

MORE BACKGROUND

The political and historical background of the island provides context for my dad’s experience in Great Nicobar thus far. Navneet Singh, another UNITED SIKHS volunteer on the ground with my father, discusses the island's background and what he saw firsthand. Read his report: http://www.unitedsikhs.org/PressReleases/COMVCE-23-01-2005-00.htm

“The survivors informed us that it took almost over 3 days after the Tsunami before any official came down to their island to see if they were alive.”

PHOTO: Campbell Bay Flooded, Aerial

2005-02-06T22:28:00.001-08:00

Campbell Bay Flooded, from Helicopter

PHOTO: Campbell Bay Flooded

2005-02-06T22:28:00.000-08:00

Campbell Bay Flooded

PHOTO: Judge at SFO

2005-02-06T19:41:00.000-08:00

Judge at San Francisco Airport, January 20, 2005

PHOTO: Preparing for the Trip

2005-01-25T13:34:00.000-08:00

Preparing for Great Nicobar, January 19, 2005.
Photo by Eric Zamora- The Fresno Bee
http://www.fresnobee.com/local/story/9799589p-10661183c.html

INTRODUCTION: The Project

2005-01-22T20:25:00.000-08:00

On January 20th, our father, Judge S. Brar, left for Great Nicobar, an island in the Indian Ocean devastated by the tsunami. For three months, he will lead clean-up and reconstruction on the island. We invite you to join our project.
-- Valarie and Sanjeev Brar

THE PROJECT

Great Nicobar, barely sixty miles from the epicentre of the tsunami in Aceh, was one of the worst hit areas. Homes and businesses were washed away, and thousands have been without food and shelter. Yet until the non-profit United Sikhs landed on the island last Friday, no non-governmental organization had provided aid (the Indian government had restricted aid for this strategic island to its armed forces). Among the communities it found, United Sikhs came across a Sikh settlement on the island, now left with very little. My father, a general engineering contracter, has joined their team to lead construction efforts. For three months, he will lead clean-up, rebuilding, and construction, including managing the building of a saw-mill, rebuilding homes and water systems, and restoring thedamaged gurdwara (Sikh temple).

Read about the story in The Fresno Bee:

http://www.fresnobee.com/local/story/9799589p-10661183c.html

JOIN THE EFFORT -- Seeking Immediate Support

We are raising funds in order to supply our father with immediate relief supplies. If you make a tax-deductible donation to the United Sikhs organization, Judge S. Brar will DIRECTLY receive checks of donated funds and use them to provide aid and rebuild the island. We know many of you have already made financial donations. But if you could put forth a little more today, whether it's $50 or $500 or $1000, every cent will be used for supplies that our dad himself will use with and for the people of Great Nicobar. Our father is using his own money for his travel, housing, and food. 100% of donated funds will go directly to his relief work.

Moreover, this blog contains reports directly from Judge Brar on his progress in Nicobar. You will see exactly where your funds are being used, meet the community you are helping, and follow the rebuilding efforts on this single island. When our father returns, we will compile his video footage and pictures, so that everyone who donates to this project will be able to see the fruits of their support.

HOW TO DONATE

(1) Donate directly online in one easy step on the United Sikhs website:http://www.unitedsikhs.org/reliefproject.html#donate

(2) When you make the donation, in the column, write: "For Judge Brar's efforts in Great Nicobar."

(3) Send his daughter Valarie an email (valariek@gmail.com) with the amount of your donation and indicate whether you want to receive personal email updates about Judge's progress.

A PERSONAL MESSAGE

Many of us have experienced a sense of helplessness whenever pausing in our day to think about the human loss. We know that we have tried to focus on my final papers for the semester and keep breaking down in mid-sentence. Sometimes it becomes hard to focus on our work when we have clear images of the devastation and trauma. Most of us cannot leave everything and go to the devastated areas and join in the relief. It's not the right time, we're not in the right place. But somehow our father has found a window of time when he can afford to leave everything and apply his contracting skills rebuilding homes and water systems. Here is a way for all of us to be connected with each other and with the tsunami victims through our dad's work. This is the first humanitarian volunteer experience of this kind for our dad, a native of Clovis in California's Central Valley. His work will help change the devastation on the island, but the helping will also change him—and all of us deeply invested in this project. Every bit of support matters.

For those who know our dad well, you know that January 19th, the day before he left, was his birthday. He turned 53. We can't think of a more ideal gift than a donation to his relief project.

OUR PROGRESS

Within just 24 hours of announcing this project, we raised $2,000. We can’t thank you enough for the overwhelming support so far. We’re looking forward to continuing this effort and expanding our community to rebuild Great Nicobar together. Feel free to forward this message.

MORE ON GREAT NICOBAR

To read about Great Nicobar Island, read the press releases from United Sikhs:
http://www.unitedsikhs.org/reliefproject.html

For a moving piece, read Amitav Ghosh's article. Amitav Ghosh, the internationally renowned novelist, visited the Andaman and Nicobar Islands recently to see for himself how the system and ordinary people have coped with the devastation caused by the tsunami of December 26.It begins:

THE ANDAMAN and Nicobar Islands are one of those quadrants of the globe where political and geological fault lines run on parallel courses. Politically the islands are Union Territories, ruled directlyfrom New Delhi, but geologically they stand just beyond the edge of the Indian tectonic plate. Stretching through 700 kilometres of the Bay of Bengal, they are held aloft by a range of undersea mountains that stands guard over the abyssal deep of the Sunda trench. Of the 572 islands, only 36 are inhabited: `the Andamans' is the name given to the northern part of the archipelago while `the Nicobars' lie to the south. At their uppermost point, the Andamans are just a few dozen miles from Burma's Coco Islands, infamous for their prisons, while the southernmost edge of the Nicobars is only a couple of hundred kilometres from the ever-restless region of Aceh. This part of the chain is so positioned that the tsunami of December 26, 2004 hit it just minutes after the coastline of northern Sumatra.

http://www.hindu.com/2005/01/11/stories/2005011108991100.htm